Colour Your Worlde

Artwork that you have printed or bought is an investment. Think of mounting and framing as preserving your asset. Choosing the right type of mounting board, mating, and frame can mean the difference between the piece lasting for years or generations.

Acid free materials should be used when dry mounting and framing your work. This not only applies to the type of board or mating selected, but also the adhesive used to affix the print to the board. Most reputable framers will use the proper adhesive in their process, but may not use the right type of backing or mat unless requested by the customer. That is where the consumer needs to be educated about their purchase. Acid free materials can sometimes come with a higher price. The economical frame and mat combo sold at your local craft store can seem like a great deal until it degrades your print. Be sure to do your research before you make your purchase.

With the move towards environmental conservation many frame companies even have lines that promote reforestation for the materials used to make their product. So you are not only preserving your artwork, you are also supporting environmental sustainability.

If you have art work currently framed with materials that are not acid free, you should consider re-framing them before it is too late. The longer it stays in its current state the acid will continue to leach in to the print. It may not show damage today, but it will over time. Restoring a print is more costly than framing it properly the first time.

Remember to do your research and make sure that the materials used to finish your art will keep it looking beautiful today and for years to come.

We have had the privilege to use Larson-Juhl frame molding as part of an order fulfillment program for one of our national clients. It is good to know that not only does Larson-Juhl provide superior looking frames, but also that they care about their environmental impact in harvesting the wood to make their product.

Larson-Juhl Receives Two Environmental Certifications

Larson-Juhl has been awarded chain-of-custody environmental certifications for moulding and matboard products from two worldwide organizations, Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) and Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). The Biltmore™ Frame Collection by Larson-Juhl® is PEFC certified and The Artique Biltmore™ Collection of Solid Color Core matboards is FSC certified.

...Third party independent auditors oversee harvesting through manufacturing, distribution, and sales to ensure that a product is certified as claimed and validate a chain-of-custody certification. Products that achieve certification can feature the logo and unique certification number designated to the company to prove validation.

For many hanging picture frames can be a frustrating and daunting task. There are several methods to achieve the look you would like for your decor. This one posted on Instructables takes in to consideration the average eye level of most viewers, and then uses that magical number 66" from the floor to find the sweet spot on where to hang your nail. There is some other math involved too, but we will let them explain.

Hang a Picture Frame

Here is my method for measuring and hanging framed pictures. Your art will end up at the correct viewing height and will be even with other frames in the room, even if they are different sizes. This is my own preferred method; there are others, like some folks will hang pictures with the tops or bottoms at the same height; others so that the middles are all level. My method places the two-thirds point uniformly at eye level, which I think looks best....

step 6 Make a sketch

On a piece of paper make a diagram (this helps me). Make these calculations:
Take frame height ( H ), divide by three. This is ( E )
Measured down from the top of the frame, ( E ) is going to end up being eye level ( L, or 66" ), two thirds up the frame.
The difference between the 66 inch mark and where the hanger will go is ( D ).
Picture hanger is placed at ( X ).

So we have:
H divided by 3 = E ( Thirds )
E minus V = D ( Difference between wire and top third point )
66 plus D = X ( Eye level plus difference is where the hanger goes )
V corresponds to X ( The wire hangs on the hanger. Duh. )

It gets easier when you've done it once or twice.
(Tell me if I've made this stupidly complicated.)

Check out the link to see all of the steps. You will be hanging pictures like a pro in no time.